Back to George Town for Fall Cruise

George Town, Exuma

ARRIVAL AND SET-UP
Well this blog update is very overdue and we apologize for the neglect.  I arrived in George Town on Nov. 4 after stopping in Traverse City to visit my parents and the rest of the fam.  

Then flew to Jupiter, FL to spend two nights with long-time friend Bob Bruce (who recently sold his Island Packet 40 on which we did much cruising) where I picked up lots of boat parts which I had been shipping to him.


When I arrived, our friends David & Kathryn picked me up and let me stay with them and their dog Boo (below) ashore for a few days as the winds were 20-30kts  ~ a remment of near-by hurricane Thomas.  When I finally got out to the boat I found Mystique to be in great shape.  Topsides and bottom clean.  No mold or mildew inside, and little evidence of leaks.  What a relief.  I went to work preparing her for the Admiral who flew in on the 8th.

Among the boat prep tasks are to get the 3 sails up from belowdecks and installed with appropriate halyards and sheets, unpacking all the linens, books, charts, cds, clothing and electronics from their plastic bags and put away, checking out all the electronic and mechanical systems to make sure everything still works, inflating and launching the dingy from the aft deck, lowering the Johnson 15hp outboard on the dinghy, filling 2 tanks with gas and starting the outboard, which is always drained of fuel when we leave the boat (2nd pull starts it, always), opening, lubing and closing all 10 thru-hull valves several times to keep them in working order, starting the diesel engine and generator after checking fluid levels and charging the batteries, opening the LPG tank valve and starting the stove, diving on and cleaning the bottom paint and propeller, checking the zincs for corrosion.  This all takes a few days of labor and was not all completed before the Admiral arrived because of the weather-caused delay getting out to the boat.


But Jan and Sammy-the-cat arrived on schedule Monday 11/18 from Colorado as the winds subsided, and the boat passed inspection!   We did more work together then pulled Mystique out of her snug hurricane hole tie-up on Tuesday morning.  We took her across the 1mi wide Elizabeth Harbour to George Town and anchored there so we could make multiple dinghy runs into the market for groceries, booze, water, etc.


Click the Photos on Flickr link to the left to see the rest of our pictures from this trip.


CREW ARRIVES FOR A CRUISE
By Thursday we were ready for our crew, Paul & Helen Guillory from Grand Junction.  They are long time friends of the family and are experienced RV campers so we knew they would adjust to the close quarters of a boat for a week. After a day introducing them to the boat and George Town, we headed NW up the Exuma Island chain on Saturday in strong N. winds and high seas.  Mystique performed wonderfully.  Since we could not obtain diesel in GT, we stopped off at Emerald Bay Resort Marina (same place we celebrated after Andy and Jess' wedding 1.5 years ago) to top off the diesel and fill the water tanks.


The entrance to Emerald Bay Marina faces north, the same direction from which 8' seas were running from the high winds of the previous week.  We were advised to run the entrance at full throttle and with sail up for steadying the boat.  As we were just about to enter the narrow opening a wave welled up from behind and swung the boat to the left toward the breakwater rocks.  I swung the wheel to the right full stop and we straightened out and slid into the harbor with 4 big sighs of relief!  After that adrenaline rush we decided to spend the night at the marina because the wind and waves were supposed to lay down overnight. OK, Emerald Bay Marina is a five star marina, but we spent less there than many other places.  And get this, cruisers, FREE LAUNDRY and clean showers!  Not your average Bahamian marina.


Big D's beach conch bar just 2 miles north of the marina had been the scene of prior visits, and we decided that Paul and Helen needed to experience some local seafood at this place known for its excellent conch salad.  After some rum and seafood we returned to the high-class marina for a good night's rest.  We knew all about the luxury of Emerald Bay from the wedding.  But new since then was the purchase of the former (closed) Four Seasons Resort by Sandals Resorts which re-opened at the beginning of 2010.


Great weather and perfect winds allowed us to sail up to Black Point.  Lorraine says hello and "where are all you cruisers?"  We then went to see the swimming pigs and Staniel Cay followed by an overnight anchorage at Sampson Cay.  On to the Land & Sea Park.  There is quite a controversy in the park these days.  One of the larger islands, Bell Island, is owned by the Aga Kahn who is doing a lot of development and dredging, to accomodate his (obviously very large) yacht.  And those of his friends.  He has already put in a helipad for the 13 seater that he owns.  There is a large faction who says if there were to be no development in the Park, the Govt should have bought all the private lands when the park was incorporated.  And it's too late now.  And then there is a faction who says 'STOP' developing our park.  It's a very interesting delemma.  Sailing past Bell Is, the Aga Kahn has already done a lot of visable building.  The controversy continues: does he or does he not have the proper permits??  All depends on who you talk to.  


We made another interesting stop on our way back to George Town.  We anchored outside Musha Cay.  The guide book says you can rent the entire island for $350,000/week.  It sleeps 20.  Don't know if meals are included....  We spotted a lovely beach complex, complete with sailing craft, sail boards, etc. There were several reallly nice cottages beautifully painted and landscaped.  There was also a sculpture in front of one of the cottages ~ a 10 foot cat.  We have since found out that this island is owned by David Copperfield and that there are several more sculptures around the island.  We were grateful to wake up the next morning and find that he did not make Mystique disappear!


THINGS LOOKING UP ON EXUMA
Sandals has been a boost to the local economy, and it is evident from the moment you arrive at the airport.  There is a bit more traffic.  The roads are cleaned of all litter.  Buildings are freshly painted.  There are at least 4 new eating establishments around George Town.  Chat 'n Chill beach bar was able to stay open over the summer instead of shutting down until tourist season.  There is a new cafe on the cove in GT which is open from 7am till 11pm and offers breakfast, lunch and dinner and FREE WIFI!!!!  This is a big plus for us cruisers.  Jan and I independently came to the same conclusion and remarked to each other about our observations that things seem better all around. 


THANKSGIVING
Bahama doesn't usually celebrate Thanksgiving.  Something about the Loyalists who first settled these islands.. So we are heading to Cat Island for the holiday.  We anchored in Fernandez Bay last spring and made some friends with the owners who happen to be American.  So, winds and weather willing, we will try to get there for Thanksgiving.  And then??  Perhpas farther south to Crooked Island and the Acklins.  Perhaps to the Jumentos and/or Raggeds.  We'll keep you posted.  Until then, all is well aboard Mystique and we're thankful for so many blessings.  Among them are Kathryn and David, our friends and generous hosts who live in George Town and make us feel so at home here.