Hurricane Paloma - the strategic game

When we awoke in Bimini the next morning the morning weather report via Single Side Band (SSB) radio and the internet was that a hurricane was developing south of Cuba called Paloma. GREAT! This was the last thing we wanted to hear.

So we had a pow-wow and decided since the forecasters didn't really know what would develop, or how long it would last, we would head across the Great Bahama Banks toward Nassau, anchor for the night out on the eastern edge of the banks in the mild NE breezes, and listen the next morning for the forecast update to see whether:
a) We would head back to Bimini because the hurricane was headed our way (with the option to head back to Florida if it got bad)
b) Stay on the banks for a second night if the forecast was too iffy
c) Sail onward to Nassau the following day because the hurricane would go further east, or
d) Sail the next day down the Tongue of the Ocean (a deep channel that runs south from Nassau) and the next night and land right in the heart of the Exumas because the hurricane was no threat at all.

We left Bimini at sunup Thursday and motor-sailed all day in beautiful light conditions across the 15' depths of the banks. It's very eerie to see the bottom so clearly all day and not hit anything. And, as in the Abacos this Spring, we were also amazed to travel for 50+ miles and see so little evidence of sea life. Just a lot of white sand with a few grassy areas.

Thursday night we pulled up north of the NW Channel Light at the eastern end of the bank and found a sandy spot with 11' depth to drop anchor about an hour before sunset. This is a very unusual experience because there was NO sight of land anywhere - just water 360 degrees around us. We enjoyed a gorgeous sunset But the shallow waters and light winds kept the waves low and we had a wonderful night to sleep except for a few hours when the wind picked up and we bounced around a bit.


The next morning we listed to the Bahamas weather forecaster, Chris Parker, on 4045mh on the SSB radio. Swabby Jim took copious notes about the hurricane's path. Paloma was forecasted to head right over George Town, Great Exuma -- our planned destination where Jim had booked a flight out to the states this coming Tuesday. So scratch plan d! But because it was not headed toward Nassau we decided that would be a good place to go that day and hole up at a marina pending further developments.

We motorsailed closehauled into an easterly wind all day, arriving in Nassau harbor around 3:30. A marina which had been recommended by several people had plenty of space so we took a slip at a dock at Nassau Yacht Haven. We have been very surprised at the lack of other cruisers on our route this year. We assume it is because we are ahead of the southerly flow of cruisers coming down from the Chesapeake and north, and because of the economy. We hoped that would leave us some bargaining room on slip rates but we haven't found that to be the case.

One piece of advice from the guidebooks which we've taken to heart: In case of an approaching storm, head for the most populated harbor you can find because there will always be plenty of services and things to do. Also having an airport will mean that crew can come and go.

You'd be proud of us (or disappointed). This marina is home to the famous Poop Deck bar, but after three days here we have yet to step into the place! We've toured all over Nassau by foot, participated in free rum and vodka tastings at local duty-free shops (the latter with free hors deoeuvres), bought fresh lobster right off the fishing boat and enjoyed them for dinner just as there were fireworks going off over Paradise Island, home of the dominating Atlantis Resort.

We attended a Methodist church this morning and happened to be in town to watch the Day of Rememberance ceremony with bands, parades, ALL the local dignitaries including the Prime Minister and cabinet and representatives from the Red Cross, Boy Scouts and about every other organization with a uniform. The most impressive uniforms were those traditional British startched white outfits with the pith helmets. The day is set aside, as is our Veteran's Day, to commemorate those who have given their lives in the service of their country.

Now Paloma is forecasted to quiet down and stay around Cuba as it runs out of steam. So it looks like we could have made it to the Exumas after all before Jim's departure on Wednesday. However, with just two days left and a rainy forecast for tomorrow, he won't see the Exumas with us after all this! We've decided it would be pointless to head the 30 miles across to the Exumas in wet weather only to have to turn around and return to Nassau for his departure. Swabby Jim has been a great crew. When he's not out swabbing the decks, he's serenading us with his guitar and songs!

Tomorrow we'll walk over the very tall bridge to Paradise Island and tour around the Atlantis Resort. Can't complain too much about another day in a very interesting and warm location.

Don't forget to look at more of our pictures on our Flickr photo album (link to left).